I had the chance to meet Alex a few weeks ago; the guy is charged. His energy and positivity were a breath of fresh, salty, air. (And he's no spring chicken, but you would have never known.) It didn't take long in the conversation for me to discover his secret: surfing.
Being the curious little lady bug that I am, I asked him a few questions on what I had a hunch was his form of meditation and why it seems so hard nowadays for us to get lost in our passions.
His words took me for a ride:
" Humans today are living too much like automations. Meditation to me is finding the eternal in my soul. The whole aspect of surfing, from paddling out to the line-up, waiting for the wave and catching the wave is a process of connecting to the eternal... it's a loss of self, a reconnection to something very powerful and beautiful. The after- effects are a respect for nature and a calming of my soul. Experiencing nature is a path to healing the planet."